About the Breed
Body Type
The general type of the Dutch rabbit should be relatively rounded and balanced throughout. It should start from behind the head, over the shoulders to the highest point of the loin and rounding off over the hindquarters. The shoulders should remain well rounded. Regardless of whether it is a small or large Dutch they should remain well rounded.
Varieties
Markings
It is important that the markings of the Dutch are to be clean and clear, distinct, and free of drags of opposite color.
Cheeks:
Cheeks are to be well rounded and carried around the whisker bed, but not into it. Faults include the cheeks being hooked (i.e. not well rounded and coming sharp to the jaw bone), meeting the line of the neck, or dragging into the mouth or throat. Faults also include the cheeks being to high, whether above the whisker bed or appearing as eye circles.
Blaze:
The blaze is the marking along the face. It should be in a wedge shape and about medium width. The blaze should cover the nose, whisker bed, and tapering up to the ears. Although, there are no additional points added, it is desirable to have a hair line (where the blaze goes between the ears and connecting to the neck marking).
Neck:
The neck marking is the white part on the collar behind the ears. It should be a clean and wedged shape marking. An animal with no or full neck marking is not disqualified, but is faulted. Dirty necks (where it is not a clean shape) will be faulted.
Saddle:
The saddle marking is point on the upper body where the white fur meets the colored fur. This should begin just behind the shoulders and create a perfect circle around the body.
Undercut:
The undercut is the marking on the underbody that connects to the saddle. It should create a perfect circle and should be close behind the forelegs, but touching them. It is a disqualification if the body color extends past the elbow joint of the forleg.
Stops:
On the hind feet, the stop markings should be well rounded. There should be white from the toes to about one third of the length of the foot, where the color fur begins. Disqualifications include if the color fur of the marking runs completely and between the toes. The toes can be separated for identification of the split stop.
Cheeks:
Cheeks are to be well rounded and carried around the whisker bed, but not into it. Faults include the cheeks being hooked (i.e. not well rounded and coming sharp to the jaw bone), meeting the line of the neck, or dragging into the mouth or throat. Faults also include the cheeks being to high, whether above the whisker bed or appearing as eye circles.
Blaze:
The blaze is the marking along the face. It should be in a wedge shape and about medium width. The blaze should cover the nose, whisker bed, and tapering up to the ears. Although, there are no additional points added, it is desirable to have a hair line (where the blaze goes between the ears and connecting to the neck marking).
Neck:
The neck marking is the white part on the collar behind the ears. It should be a clean and wedged shape marking. An animal with no or full neck marking is not disqualified, but is faulted. Dirty necks (where it is not a clean shape) will be faulted.
Saddle:
The saddle marking is point on the upper body where the white fur meets the colored fur. This should begin just behind the shoulders and create a perfect circle around the body.
Undercut:
The undercut is the marking on the underbody that connects to the saddle. It should create a perfect circle and should be close behind the forelegs, but touching them. It is a disqualification if the body color extends past the elbow joint of the forleg.
Stops:
On the hind feet, the stop markings should be well rounded. There should be white from the toes to about one third of the length of the foot, where the color fur begins. Disqualifications include if the color fur of the marking runs completely and between the toes. The toes can be separated for identification of the split stop.
General Information
The Dutch Rabbit is a very gentle and a well dispositional animal. They make a make a great rabbit for the beginner to the well advanced exhibitor.
The senior (over 6 months) weight should be between 3 1/2 lbs to 5 1/2 lbs.
Feeding:
Every rabbit raiser has their own preference on what pellet to feed. It is, however, important to feed a high quality pellet (i.e. Heinold®, Purina®, Nutrena®, etc.). Supplements, again, are the owner's preference. It's very important that any rabbit gets Timothy Hay in their diet on a daily basis. Timothy will help prevent intestinal obstruction. Fresh water on a daily basis is an important key in maintaining a healthy and conditioned rabbit.
Breeding:
The gestation period for a Dutch rabbit is usually between 28-32 days. Average size of litter is around 6 kits. Kits are born blind and eyes will open anywhere between 7-14 days.
Housing:
All rabbits require a well ventilated area to help prevent disease (i.e. pasturella). Dutch are a relatively small breed and don't require a very large cage, usually 24"x24" is a good sized cage.
Purchasing:
When purchasing a Dutch rabbit, it is important to keep in mind the purpose of the rabbit you are about to buy (i.e. breeding, showing, pet). No matter what the purpose is, it is very important to keep the health of the rabbit in mind and do a good examination on the rabbit first. Check the teeth for any signs of malocclusion (long, lower incisors extending in front of upper incisors, etc.) teeth problems are hereditary and it wouldn't hurt to see the sire & dam's teeth (if applicable). Check the ears for any dirt that may resemble ear mites. It is extremely important to look at the nose, eyes, and forearms, for any evidence of a cold or upper respiratory infection. For a show or breeding rabbit, it is important to look at the bone structure of the animal. Check the hind legs for straightness and there is no evidence of cow hocks (where the hind legs are turned so the toes are pointing outward). Check for pinched hindquarters (where the hindquarters taper towards the tail and are not well rounded). Check vent, especially a buck to be sure both testicles are noticeable. Check toe nails and eye colors to be sure it is the appropriate color via the Standard of Perfection, which can be purchased on the website for ARBA, it is listed under publications. If it will be your first show or breeding rabbit you purchase, it helps to have the Standard of Perfection with you as a reference to what you want. Remember, there may be no such thing as a perfect Dutch, but there is a difference between a good and a bad Dutch.
The senior (over 6 months) weight should be between 3 1/2 lbs to 5 1/2 lbs.
Feeding:
Every rabbit raiser has their own preference on what pellet to feed. It is, however, important to feed a high quality pellet (i.e. Heinold®, Purina®, Nutrena®, etc.). Supplements, again, are the owner's preference. It's very important that any rabbit gets Timothy Hay in their diet on a daily basis. Timothy will help prevent intestinal obstruction. Fresh water on a daily basis is an important key in maintaining a healthy and conditioned rabbit.
Breeding:
The gestation period for a Dutch rabbit is usually between 28-32 days. Average size of litter is around 6 kits. Kits are born blind and eyes will open anywhere between 7-14 days.
Housing:
All rabbits require a well ventilated area to help prevent disease (i.e. pasturella). Dutch are a relatively small breed and don't require a very large cage, usually 24"x24" is a good sized cage.
Purchasing:
When purchasing a Dutch rabbit, it is important to keep in mind the purpose of the rabbit you are about to buy (i.e. breeding, showing, pet). No matter what the purpose is, it is very important to keep the health of the rabbit in mind and do a good examination on the rabbit first. Check the teeth for any signs of malocclusion (long, lower incisors extending in front of upper incisors, etc.) teeth problems are hereditary and it wouldn't hurt to see the sire & dam's teeth (if applicable). Check the ears for any dirt that may resemble ear mites. It is extremely important to look at the nose, eyes, and forearms, for any evidence of a cold or upper respiratory infection. For a show or breeding rabbit, it is important to look at the bone structure of the animal. Check the hind legs for straightness and there is no evidence of cow hocks (where the hind legs are turned so the toes are pointing outward). Check for pinched hindquarters (where the hindquarters taper towards the tail and are not well rounded). Check vent, especially a buck to be sure both testicles are noticeable. Check toe nails and eye colors to be sure it is the appropriate color via the Standard of Perfection, which can be purchased on the website for ARBA, it is listed under publications. If it will be your first show or breeding rabbit you purchase, it helps to have the Standard of Perfection with you as a reference to what you want. Remember, there may be no such thing as a perfect Dutch, but there is a difference between a good and a bad Dutch.